Machu Picchu, Peru

My journey on the Salkantay Trek started with a two and a half-hour drive from Cusco, Peru to Mollepata, a small town situated at the base of the trail. Our guide suggested we buy any last-minute supplies such as trail snacks, water, nuts, granola bars, and fruits. I packed everything I needed to dress appropriately for the changing weather conditions of the trail. My backpack contained all the essential items I would require on the trek. However, I had no idea how to pack for a multi-day hiking and camping trip. To ensure that I had everything I needed for the journey, my suitcase was carried on a donkey to the first campsite.

Upon reaching the entrance to the trail, our group agreed to name ourselves the Salkantay Apus. The term “Apu” is an old Quechua word used to refer to mountain spirits that watch over the people, livestock, and crops in their territory. Thus began our journey to Machu Picchu.

Although our plan for the day was to cover a shorter distance, we had the option of either taking it easy and heading straight to our first campsite in Soraypampa, or pushing ourselves a little further and visiting Lake Humantay before returning to our campsite. Unanimously, we decided to visit the lake, and it was a decision that we did not regret. Lake Humantay was a surreal combination of turquoise, greens, grays, and whites, offering a breathtakingly beautiful view. I was envious of the cows grazing by the lake, who get to roam free for the season before ranchers round them up months later.

The night at our campground was quite chilly, despite being snug inside my tent in my sleeping bag. I inhaled the cold air as I slept and woke up the next morning with an extremely sore throat. However, there was no turning back. If I got sick, I had to tough it out. This day was a significant one, as we would be hiking all the way to the peak of the Salkantay Trek.

We began our hike at a gradual incline from about 12,500 feet at the Soraypampa campsite to a little over 15,000 feet at Abra Salkantay or the Salkantay Pass. I was initially wearing a t-shirt and hiking pants, but by the time we reached the peak, I had to layer up with a jacket and a hat. As we climbed, wild horses and alpacas dotted the mountain faces. Upon reaching the top, our guide paused to say a traditional Quechua prayer to Pachamama or Mother Earth, thanking her for allowing us safe passage on the trail.

Our hike was not over yet. We had to continue our way to Collpapampa, which was at an elevation of about 10,200 feet. Luckily, it was all downhill from here. Trekking our way down the mountain face, barren rocky paths turned into muddy green trails. The air got warmer and thicker, and before we knew it, all we could see was forest. That night, the Salkantay Apus celebrated our victory over what is considered the hardest day on the trail by dancing and drinking till our feet ached.

The following day was wet and humid, and rainclouds descended from the heavens, filling the valleys between the mountains. As we followed the Rio Santa Teresa, I noticed that the trail had become much more crowded with other hikers. It seemed like Collpapampa was an inflection point between the Salkantay and other trails.

On our penultimate day of the Salkantay Trek, we took a shorter route following the Urubamba River from Santa Teresa until we reached train tracks, which we followed to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to Machu Picchu. While Aguas Calientes is not an ancient town, it became the main tourist destination in the 1930s, and there are no cars in the town, only Inca Rail train stops and minibusses that take tourists up to Machu Picchu. We spent the night in a hostel and enjoyed a hot shower before our early departure the next day.

The journey up to Machu Picchu was challenging, and the final 1,600 steps to the ruins were the most difficult. The ancient Inca stone steps have a steep incline of around 60 degrees for over 600 feet. However, the challenge was worth it, as the view from the top of Huayna Picchu was breathtaking. We made our way to a viewpoint and waited patiently for the mist to roll away. As the clouds lifted, the ruins of Machu Picchu slowly began to reveal themselves to us, and the golden rays of sunshine flooded the site, giving us a magical, transcendental experience.

After this, our group disbanded, and we said our farewells. Each person went on to explore the ruins on their own, and I visited the Intipuku (Sun Gate) and the Inca Bridge before making my way back down the Machu Picchu mountain trail to Aguas Calientes. Here, I collected my suitcase from the hostel and took the Inca Rail train back to Cusco. I spent the night in a comfortable hotel bed before flying back to Chicago the next day. 

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