Rainbow Mountain, Peru

Despite being after the end of high season, Cusco was still bustling with people. November marks the start of Peru’s wet season, which means fewer people on the treks to Machu Picchu, but it’s not so wet that it makes for an unpleasant experience. I was prepared with waterproof hiking boots, a raincoat, and clothing for all four seasons. Layering is crucial on the Salkantay Trek.

SK Hostal was the perfect hostel to stay in Cusco until it was time to leave for the trek. It’s located in Cusco’s Centro Historico, and is within walking distance to all the shops, restaurants, and sights in the town. You need at least 24 hours to acclimate to the 11,000-foot elevation of Cusco, so exploring the town was the best and least strenuous way to do that.

As the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco has managed to maintain a balance between old world charm and modern tourism. I love taking free walking tours when I travel, and the one I took in Cusco was a great way to explore the town while learning about its history and culture. Cusco was once the capital of the Incan Empire, and how the Incas transported the huge stone slabs to build the city remains a mystery. After the Spanish colonization, the new inhabitants built their own baroque structures on top of the old Incan ones. The walking tour takes you to the Twelve Angled Stone, which was once part of the old Incan palace wall, and the Santo Domingo Convent, which exists on top of the Incan Temple of the Sun.

The next day, I had a leisurely excursion to Rainbow Mountain, also known as Vinicunca. Well, it started off as a leisurely excursion. The drive from Cusco was uneventful and took about 3 hours. But once I arrived at the base of Rainbow Mountain, I felt excited and energized by the crisp and cool air. Our guide explained that it was a one-hour hike up the mountain. The trail was surrounded by snowy peaks and mossy green slopes.

Despite the hike being relatively easy, within 10 minutes, I began experiencing strange symptoms such as shortness of breath, lethargy, and nausea. My guide gave me some cocoa leaves to chew, and said that it was altitude sickness. I had assumed that since I had been in Cusco for 24 hours without any symptoms, I was fully acclimated. But I guess not. There was a difference of several thousand feet between Cusco and Vinicuna, which had a peak at over 16,000 feet. After almost two hours and about a kilo of cocoa leaves later, I finally arrived at the stunning viewpoint of Rainbow Mountain. The beautiful colors in the mountain were caused by the various minerals in its geology. Sadly, Rainbow Mountain was virtually unknown for many years, as it was almost always covered in snow. But global warming has revealed its beauty and made it a popular hiking destination.

The hike down was much easier and quicker, and the long drive back to Cusco allowed for a nice nap. That evening, I booked my 5-day trek on the Salkantay Trail, giving myself one more day to hang out in Cusco and fully acclimate to the altitude. This was my first multi-day hike, and I had only camped overnight before in California, so the hiking and camping culture were new to me. I took my extra day in Cusco to purchase a few necessary items, like hiking pants and hiking socks. 

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