Lillian Martin
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Finding Happy in Uruguay
I’m in Montevideo, standing outside our hotel in the tony neighborhood of Positos, a beachfront enclave of modern condos. We were negotiating a return time for the e-bikes we were renting. The owner of Orange Bike, who had dropped them off, shrugs. “Just text me when you’re done.” Say, what - no credit card? No deposit? How can that be?
We discover this is how it goes in Uruguay: a ‘No Pasa Nada’ (it’s all good) attitude that comes to embody our wonderful trip to the most laid-back country in South America. With its elegant capital, wind-swept beaches and enchanting beach towns, Uruguay is a hidden gem.
In the 1930s, the capital, Montevideo, a short ferry ride across the river from Buenos Aires, became an epicenter of European culture and finance as many Italians and French fled the war in Europe. I’m here because my grandparents left Germany in 1936 and got married on the steps of the old courthouse in Montevideo. They joined thousands of other European immigrants fleeing Italy, France and Germany before the outbreak of World War II. Because of this migration and the complete slaughter of indigenous people by the Spanish in the 1800s, Uruguay’s population is of 80 percent European descent. Montevideo’s wide avenues and art deco buildings intermingled with modern office buildings speak of a bygone era.
It’s a beautiful Sunday, and we pull our bikes onto the famous La Rambla, a 14-mile long pedestrian waterfront promenade that rings the city. We join the throng of locals walking, biking, skating, fishing, playing tennis, soccer or just sitting in circles enjoying their mate (tea) ritual. Montevideo is not on the Ocean. “It’s a RIVER!” repeats our guide several times during our tour the next day, as if she’d had it with people mistaking the famous Rio De La Plata for the Ocean.
We make our way to the old town and find the famous lunch spot, Es Mercat, where we dine on delicious Italian bread and local fish while getting serenaded by a troupe of passing musicians. Meals in Uruguay are serious business, and we struggled to adjust to late lunches and dinners. “We eat dinner at 11 pm,” says Jose, one of our guides. I confessed I didn’t know how they managed it. “That’s why we have our (yerba) mate!” Jose exclaims, referring to the local tea brewed and sipped through a straw in a cut-out gourd throughout the day.
Much of Uruguay is owned by rich Argentinians who, because their economy is always in crisis, buy all the property. Uruguay has excellent financials and a super stable currency and is considered the Switzerland of South America. As Americans, the dollar buys you a lot, with meals about 75 percent cheaper than at home. A grass-fed ribeye and a bottle of wine will set you back about $25 at a fancy restaurant. There are 14-million cows and only 3-million people in all of Uruguay, and beef is one of their main exports.
The next day, we head east along the coast to the Atlantic beaches. We are staying at the boutique hotel, Casa Flor, just outside La Barra, where the owners, Alfonso and Juan, could rival any five-star hotel concierge for elegant service and helpful itinerary suggestions. Guests enjoy a gorgeous beach house Hamptons-style setting with fresh orange juice and made-to-order breakfast overlooking the pool. When we got there, it was Monday night, and Alfonso shook his head fretfully. He can’t send us to his favorite restaurant because apparently everyone is “recovering” from Carnival.
The next morning, we walked to town, and everything was closed. Back at the hotel when I ask about it, Alfonso laughs and says, “It’s Uruguay. It’s all open. Nobody is up yet.” I look at my watch, and it’s noon.
We spent the next week exploring the beach towns of Punta del Este, Punta Ballena, La Paloma, La Pedrera and the most famous one, Jose Ignacio. When you get off the main two-lane highway, it’s all packed dirt roads and colorful, ramshackle buildings. While the towns all have the requisite main square, each has a very different personality. Some have better restaurants or more shopping, but the one thing they all have in common is gorgeous, uninterrupted beaches that are free for all to enjoy.
We made a detour to visit the famous Garzon winery taking a long and dusty road through the mountains. The building is a gorgeous architectural wonder where you can have a Michelin star quality lunch on the patio after the wine tour. In the shop, I saw some olive oil and asked if it was made on site. The clerk ushered me enthusiastically onto the balcony overlooking the valley and pointed out the corner where the olive groves were located.
These personal encounters we experienced on our trip were constant and spoke to a country that values its people and embodies all the good things in life. The warm, friendly faces and wonderful climate, the fantastic food and laid-back Mediterranean vibe all made for an unforgettable trip. Uruguay has certainly earned a place in our hearts.